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Installation of this type of attic ventilation involves leaving a gap in the sheathing along the ridge, and covering it with a perforated vent. Hidden in plain sight and often camoflauged by specialty ridge shingles, these are a particularly popular means of ventilation because they create no disruption to the roofline (view example on The Home Depot).

Ridge vents-openings that run the entire length of your roof along the ridge-are often visible only to a trained eye.

Releasing all of the heat that rises and gets trapped in the attic can be achieved with one or a combination of the three following vent models in addition to the multipurpose gable vents mentioned above. When there is wind flowing perpendicular to the roof and of sufficient speed, it can enter through the opening however, winds that are too light or not flowing directly at the vent’s entrance will do little work to cool down the space. Most of the time, their position near the peak of the roof allows heat to dissipate out through its cover. What’s more, they’re particularly valuable for their ability to function as both intake and exhaust vents, depending on the wind direction. Whether round, triangular, or rectangular, these gable vents can be painted to match either the siding or the trim work so that they add to rather than detract from the home’s exterior. Houses with gable roofs may also have vents located on the side of the house as high as possible within the peak of the gable.

Unfortunately, blocked soffit vents are as just bad as no soffit vents, because they prevent fresh air from freely flowing into the attic. While effective at pulling in cooler air, the biggest problem posed by this type of soffit vents is their positioning: Homeowners can too easily inadvertently block them when insulating the attic. Building codes vary, though, so do check with your local building authority for the specifics that pertain to your community.Īn attic’s intake vents are most commonly installed directly in the soffit, either as individual vents spaced every few feet or as one continuous perforated soffit running the entire length of the eave. In order to facilitate this exchange of warm and cool air, the general rule of thumb suggests installing at least 1 sq. Taking advantage of this natural process, referred to as passive ventilation, is the most common way to vent an attic.

Hot air exhaust vents, located at the peak of the roof, allow hot air to escape.

Intake vents, located at the lowest part of the roof under the eaves, allow cool air to enter the attic.

How Attic Ventilation WorksĪttic ventilation works on the principle that heated air naturally rises, primarily utilizing two types of vents: Ensuring your home has the proper attic ventilation according to these guidelines, however, can save yourself the stress and hassle of an emergency roof repair. And the extra heat is not just a summer concern-come winter, hot attic air can melt snow on the roof during the day only to refreeze when temperatures drop overnight, creating ice dams that lead to interior leaking and roof damage. Sealed attics trap excessive heat and moisture, which can lead to reduced shingle life. The science behind attic ventilation, however, is sound. At first glance, it can seem counter-intuitive: You insulate your home to reduce temperature fluctuations and save on utility bills, but then you allow fresh air to flow through the attic no matter the time of year.